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Bits and arbors can become stuck onto the motor shaft for a variety of reasons. Generally, they can be easily removed with a little bit of work. It is important to remember that the item is now attached to the most expensive and delicate part of your machine - the motor. It is not uncommon that someone removing a stuck bit or arbor will succeed in getting it off only to cause severe and irreversible damage to the motor. For this reason, it is important to follow these suggestions in the order they are listed; from the least invasive to the most potentially invasive purposes. Followed carefully, these suggestions will prove useful for any machine.
Bit or Arbor Removal
1. Completely loosen the set screw and then see if you can push the bit or arbor further down onto the shaft. If you can, do so as far as possible. It is generally the case that the shaft above where the bit or arbor was mounted has become crusted up with ground material debris, coolant, hard water residue, etc. This residue might not even be obvious to the casual observer.
Inspect the motor shaft above the bit or arbor. If it looks smooth but appears to have some dirt or grime on it, it can be cleaned up rather quickly. Using a small piece of ScotchBrite (that green scouring pad) or a piece of very fine (0000) steel wool, polish the end of the shaft all the way down to where the bit or arbor sits now. This is easily done by just turning the machine on and holding the pad or steel wool to the motor shaft as it turns for a few seconds. If the bit was stuck because of residue, it should slide off pretty easily now. See the end of this page for Prevention and Maintenance Tips to avoid this problem in the future.
2. If you can push the bit or arbor down as above, but you notice that there is a burr or scar on the round side of the motor shaft caused by the set screw (it appears as a small ring cut into the shaft), you will need to polish it out. This can often be done by using the same steel wool mentioned above. Be very careful here! You only want to remove the scar, you do not want to make the shaft smaller. Occasionally you will need to use a more abrasive product such as very fine grit emery cloth or sandpaper if the scar is deep. But, again, be very careful. You can quickly damage the motor shaft if you are not paying attention. Once the scar is polished out, remove the bit. Clean both the bit and shaft and use some kind of lubricant as mentioned in the Prevention and Maintenance Tips.
These burrs are created because the bit or arbor was not properly installed. NEVER tighten the bit or arbor to the round side of the motor shaft. There is a flat side on the shaft to allow for the set screw. Align and tighten your set-screw against the flat side of the shaft each time you change bits or arbors. See the end of this page for Prevention and Maintenance Tips to avoid this problem in the future.
3. If the bit or arbor is stuck such that it will not move in either direction, you will need to use a device called a gear puller (some call them faucet pullers). They are used to get gears or faucet handles off the post they are pressed on to. If you happen to own one yourself, or know a mechanic or plumber that can help you, be gentle and patient with this device and the bit or arbor will almost certainly come off. If you don't have access to a gear puller, you can usually walk into a plumbing supply store (with a smile) and they'll do it for you while you wait. If you live or work around our studio we'll be happy to help you remove the stuck bit.
Prevention and Maintenance Tips
Once you have removed the bit, clean the inside of it (where it slides over the motor shaft) as it will probably have some dried residue there. Apply a non-water-soluble grease to the motor shaft to keep this residue out. Inland manufactures a product called Motor Shaft Lubricant for a few dollars, available from your regular stained glass supplier. It is specially formulated with Teflon for these wet applications. In a pinch, petroleum jelly (like Vaseline) will prove nearly equal to the task. All bits and arbors should always be removed from the machine when they are not to be used for any length of time, i.e. a week or more. This will keep the bit from "cementing" to the shaft. It will also provide you with the opportunity of inspecting the motor shaft and bits for proper hygiene.
We've received a number of questions recently about our patternmaking software. We use Glass Eye 2000. Once mastered, it's amazingly versatile. If you create custom or commission pieces for others it's a 'natural' for inviting your client into the creative process; allowing them the chance to co-create their piece with you before their eyes!
I do all of my designs in Glass Eye and it has saved me a great deal of time; allowing me to draw, resize and modify stained glass designs easily. I can create variations of a design with typical computer cut-and-paste or save-as conventions. We can export the files and them print them as large as we need to - great for door inserts, large panels, etc.
The software includes glass samples of many manufacturer's, allowing me to play with the color selections and print out a list of glass quantities and supplies needed to complete the project. Attached is a transom I recently completed for a customer. It shows you the photograph I was initially given and my Glass Eye pattern and the finished glass panel. As I write this blog entry, that transom is being installed. Our customers are thrilled!!
I encourage you to go to the Glass Eye website at www.dfly.com and try the free trial version of the software. And, if you wouldn’t mind, please list Grand Central Stained Glass & Graphics as your referral. We get some kudos from them for the referral.
Let me know if you'd be interested in a series of Glass Eye tutorials - we can discuss the inner-workings more here on the blog.
Best regards,
Eloyne
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3 Roll Assortment! 7/32" wide, 1.25mm thick. One Roll Each: Copper, Black & Silver-lined.
Studio Pro Foil offers outstanding tack and remarkable resistance to temperature and weathering. It attaches securely to glass edges and corners to provide a smooth, uniform solder bead. Unique “Easy Pull” plastic dispenser makes for trouble-free application and storage. 36 yard roll.
Pencils/Markers
Pencils are for drawing and numbering patterns. Sharpie markers, black for light colored glass and silver for dark colored glass, are used for marking pattern and size adjustments on glass. Black and white paint pens are also good. More at a later time on keeping your marks on the glass while grinding or using a glass saw.
Copper Foil
Copper foil is a thin sheet of copper that is adhesive backed. It is attached around the edges of glass pieces and when soldered onto, creates a custom came for your stained glass panel. Copper foil comes in various widths, sheets, thicknesses, and color backing for special uses. Over time you will accumulate a variety of foil. While the copper doesn't go bad, the adhesive may. It is good to put your dispenser or foil packages in a cool area of your home. At home, I place the packages in a zipper-top plastic bag and place it in the back of my refrigerator.
Solder
Solder is a metal alloy melted by the soldering iron and used to attach to the copper foiled glass edges or the lead came joints together. Solder is a mixture of metalsusually tin and lead. Lead free solder is also available. Manufacturers of solder offer various qualities of solder and solder for various uses. Some solder brands have more residual metals in the mix than others. Most typically used in stained glass work is 50% tin/50% lead and 60% tin/40% lead solders. Solder prices run fro $12 per 1 lb. spool to $25 per ½ lb. spool. The volatility in domestic and world metals markets have caused the prices of solder to rise quickly in recent months. We'll discuss the uses of the various solders, metal mixes and melting points used for stained glass use at a later time.
Flux/Flux Brush
Flux is product that is the conduit for solder to attach to copper foil or came. It is available in either liquid, gel or paste forms. Using too much flux causes the solder to spit and create holes in the solder line; too little flux will not allow the solder to flow. I prefer Ruby paste because it is colored and stays where I put it.
Patina
Patinas are chemicals applied to solder lines or cames to change their color. Black patina changes the metal to a dark-antiqued color; copper patina changes the metal to a bright copper color. The brightness of the copper patina oxidizes over a few weeks to a beautiful subdued tone. Patinas are also available for zinc metal and available in pewter, brown and green tones.
Cutter Lubricant
Water soluble cutter lubricant is preferred to an oil-based product for use in self-lubricating cutters. I prefer the Toyo brand for my cutter.
Glass Cleaner
When working in my studio, I use dishwashing liquid under running water to clean the glass dust, oils and flux off the panel. When the project doesn't fit in my sink, I use Flux-remover products and 91% alcohol.
Glass Polish
A finishing compound of carnauba wax acts to further clean, shine and protect your glass panel.
Copper Wire
14 gauge to 22 gauge copper wire is used to create hangers and add detail to stained glass panels.
Sal Ammoniac Block
A sal ammoniac block, also called a tinning block, is used to clean excessive buildup off your soldering iron tips.
Leading Cement
Natural or black cement is pushed under the face of lead and zinc cames to eliminate gaps and rattling. It also provides for stability and weatherproofing of the panel. Use natural colored cement when solder lines and came are natural or copper patinaed; use black colored cement when solder lines and care are black patinaed.
Lead/Zinc Came
Lead and zinc came come several shapes, sizes and flexibilities. The most commonly used shapes are U-came for borders and H-came for connecting interior glass pieces. Remember to stretch lead came (non-reinforced) 3"to 4" before using.
Regards,
Eloyne
The lathkin and fid are used to burnish copper foil tightly to the glass surface. Additionally, the lathkin is used to open came channels and push came into place.
Straight Edge/Glass Square
A cork-backed ruler is good to use as a edge to guide your cutter along for scoring straight lines. The cork provides a grip to the glass surface to reduce slippage. A square rests on one edge of the glass to provide a perfect 90 degree angle for squaring-up your art glass.
Pattern Shears
Pattern shears have a single blade on top and two blades on the bottom. These blades will cut away from your pattern pieces the amount of space necessary to provide for the copper foil and solder or the heart of lead or zinc came. Copper foil pattern shears allow a distance of 1/32" space and Lead pattern shears allow a distance of 1/16" space.
Layout Guides/Push Pins/Nails/Glazing Hammer
Wooden or aluminum layout guides serve to keep your glass pieces within your pattern edges. They will keep your project square and will not allow your project to "grow." The guides are usually held in place with aluminum push pins or horseshoe nails. Horseshoe nails are also used to keep your came and glass in place in leaded glass projects. Horseshoe nails are tapped into your work surface with the hard plastic end of a glazing hammer. Glass can be tapped into place with the rubber end of the glazing hammer. A glazing hammer is a small hammer having both a hard plastic and hard rubber head proving more control over the striking surface and reducing the chance of glass breakage.
Foilers/Crimpers/Dispenser
When released from its package, copper foil behaves like a ball of yarn. It's nice to have a container to manage your selection of copper foil and provide easy dispensing of the foil with you're ready for it. Hand foilers or foiling machines offer you a way to apply copper foil to the edges of your glass with more centering precision. Crimpers fold the copper foil around the edges to the front and back of your glass. These are either separate hand tools or are mechanisms in the foiling machines.
In my studio, I use the Glastar hand foilers in the 3/16", 7/32" and ¼" sizes. We also use a c-clamp to attach them to the table edge to be able to use both hands for faster feeding of the glass and foil. They are not complicated and do just a great job.